Russian Climbing–Another Big Wall?!: Despite the risk of overdosing on the exploits of Russian climbers, TWC would be remiss if it did not check in on the OTHER Russian Big Wall attempt that is going on in addition to the Everest North Face expedition. This one is on the unclimbed North Face of Jannu (7710 meters) and it is just about as hairy as the Everest proposition. The Russians gave it a crack last Fall but were turned back at 7200 meters. Once off the face, team leader Alexander Odintsov called it “the most dangerous place I have ever seen,” due to the chunks of falling ice that rained down on the climbers 15-20 times a day. The Russians are back at 7,000 meters, where they have hacked and carved a bivvy spot into the icy face. This camp will be used as a place for climbers working higher up the Wall to recuperate. Here’s what it’s like up there:

Our group took all the day to cut out in ice a 2х2 meters platform under a tent for Efimov’s group. I have been on “7-thousand” mountains 35 times, but this is the first time bivvy organization at 7000m took so much time and force. A half of the tent is cut into the slope and closed from above by a 3х4m awning. Dust avalanches fly over it, not causing harm. We have to climb via combined relief: 70-90-degrees rocks with ice blocks and rocky cornices.

Quien es mas macho? Russian climbers. Hands-down…



Accomodations at 7000 Meters: “One 5-star sleeping ledge, coming right up. Now, if we could only order room service…”