For most, fish caught in the Mekong made up the bulk of their families protein intake yet all noted with concern that catches had diminished significantly in recent years. Few understood the reasons behind the river not rising as it once did in the early months of the monsoon and none were aware e that this problem would continue to get steadily worse as further dams in China come on line. These subsistence farmers and fishermen will increasingly shoulder the cost of the Chinese economic boom and subsequent thirst for cheap electricity yet it appears that they will not share in the benefits.

We arrived at the former royal capital of Laos, Luang Prabang. With its unique history and its mixture of traditional Lao crossed with French colonial architecture the town has recently been awarded world heritage status. Gilded temples abound, as do great restaurants and a thriving night bizarre where ethnic minorities bring their wonderful handicrafts for sale. Despite becoming a relatively busy tourist destination Luang Prabang has to date managed to maintain the feel of a country town with a touch of royal elegance. We spent 3 days visiting waterfalls, temples and other historic sights before heading south.

I lost Brian and Hutch for a couple of days when the zodiac they were using had engine troubles and finally met them in the riverside capital of Laos, Vientiane. More of an oversized town than a city Vientiane provided the base from which we rested up and arranged various interviews and meetings for the documentary before again crossing into Thailand.

We were fortunate to arrive just in time to witness the candle festival in Nongkhai complete with incredibly elaborate floats made almost entirely of bees wax; they really were works of art. We also attended a small press conference where we met Thailand’s most famous and intrepid paddler, Mr Rattapoom Youprom or “Thong” as he preferred to be called.

Thong had just finished his own amazing 3000 kilometer solo journey across the entire coastline of Thailand unsupported. As soon as he heard about a solo navigation of the Mekong River, Thong knew he had to come and join us for a while. The longer I knew Thong and the more his life story unfolded as we paddled south between Laos and Thailand the more I came to respect this incredible man.

Thongs expedition was inspired by a great need to come to peace with himself after a life altering experience shattered his world. Thongs mother and nephew were brutally murdered by a contract killer who hit the wrong targets and Thong discovered the aftermath. In a strange twist the assassin turned out to be a former childhood friend of Thongs who had turned to a life of drugs and crime. Thong was initially consumed with hate, pain and a desire for revenge and knew that these emotions would eat him up from inside and or lead to a life behind bars if he carried out his bitter plans.

His answer was to leave the world behind and take to the ocean in a bid to save his sanity and his soul. For 7 months he paddled unsupported along the Thai coastline living as a sea gypsy and in true Buddhist style lived off the generosity of local people who believe they gain merit for the next life through helping others on their quest for inner peace.