Assault on Everest’s North Face–Going Up: TWC’s favorite climbers–the Russians, who are always trying spectacular new stunts–are at it on Everest’s North Face. The North Face is a ridiculously dangerous, forbidding wall of rock, and the Russians are attempting to climb right up the middle of it. Getting up Everest via any route still requires some sweat, but going up the center of the North Face versus going up the traditional guided route–with all its fixed ropes and ladders–is like climbing two entirely different mountains. And one of them is just about the meanest bastard on earth. So of all the expeditions crawling around Everest right now, this is the one to watch.
Why? Well, here’s what the Russians are looking at, according to Eugeny Vinogradsky, one of the climbing team: “We need to set Camp 1 about 6900 meters, but there’s absolutely no place for it. Another problem – strong winds and dust snow avalanches. And the stones are falling when the sun shines in the midday. There’s also the big snow field just above our route, and it would become the avalanche source if snow falls.” Alrighty, then. Perhaps this explains why the expedition’s high altitude porters got to the bottom of the wall, said the Russians were crazy, and deserted, leaving the climbing sherpas to shoulder the loads.
Still, the Russians are plugging away, sending one team after another up the wall in sun, rain or blizzard to fix anchors and rope, before they come back down to rest. They’ve just managed to get a tent onto the face at 7,000 meters, to make Camp I, and one team has got some rope up as high as 7300 meters. The temperatures are about -15 centigrade. If these guys actually make it, it will be one of the greatest Everest climbs ever…

Expedition Planning: “C’mon Viktor, we can barely climb the bugger ourselves. There’s no way we can get all five of these vodka barrels to the top. We’ll just have to make do with three…”