Yet each time I pulled out of an eddy and into the main stream I had clarity of focus and determination that is hard to define. The second I felt the current grab the hull and move me down stream all sensations of fear and doubt disappeared completely. My entire mental and physical abilities became fixated on the sole goal of duplicating the exact movements I had created in my mind, the movements that would keep me on the narrow and constantly changing path to safety through ferocious and life threatening violence.

After more than 3 kilometers of continuous white water and 4 x class V + rapids that I would not normally choose to run the valleys broadened and eddies sent from heaven began to re appear. I was far from out of the Mekong Gorges but I was out of “Nightmare Canyon” and that night, despite being physically exhausted, I could hardly sleep. I was happy to be alive.

The rapids over the next 2 days were absolutely relentless. One, after the other, after the other. I lost count of how many rapids I scouted and ran, how many times I looked down stream and as a non religious person still found myself asking someone upstairs to make sure that the canyons I were entering would not contain un-portagable class VI rapids of continuous white water

I estimate that while in the Kham I made first descents down some 60 class IV rapids and 23 class V rapids. At relatively high water at least 12 of the rapids were “must run” rapids with no opportunity to portage around. I fully portaged two and a half drops and made “chicken runs” (Choosing an easier and safer run around the most dangerous section of rapid rather than the more obvious yet difficult route) down many of the more treacherous sections. I thought to myself how lucky the Peter Winn expedition was to have pulled out when they did. In the narrow canyons there was often no room for large rafts to stop before taking on extremely dangerous rapids and portaging would probably be necessary around at least 16 rapids taking many days. rafts are not suitable for the Mekong Gorges.

There was only on e rapid that I defined as truly un-run-able and named it “The three sisters” after the 3 consecutive river wide holes in which the river passed through, each of which was big enough top swallow a house not to mention a kayak or raft. It took 2 hours to portage around the 3 sisters on river left and I camped in a cozy little cave sheltered by oak trees just above the drops. Useful information for anyone crazy enough to go down that canyon again.

After 2 full days without seeing a single farmer’s settlement or path I finally reached a group of mud walled huts on day 7. I was physically and mentally drained. Despite never seeing foreigners before the overwhelmingly friendly and curious Tibetans gave me 5 star treatment. The highlight of the stay besides the company was a delicious meal of Yak Yogurt with wild blueberries that managed to stain my hands for 2 days. Compared to spam and 2 minute noodles it was a feast fit for kings.